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Kilauea At Night

Sun, 14 Jul 2013, 05:36 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

Before 2008, there wasn’t much to see here at night. But scientists at the observing station detected sulfur fumes, and then Halema‘uma‘u opened.

Today, molten lava from the fire pit flows thru subterranean lava tubes down to the sea. But the best view is here. Well, the best view is here at night. We’ve been here several times now during the day, but this is our first time at night.

Steam and vapors billow into the sky, lit orange by the molten rock in the pit, catching the wind, blowing with the mist and low clouds across the face of the sky.

Kilauea at night

As the clouds disperse, we see Orion lying on his side in the “wrong” part of the sky. And there’s the Milky Way behind those clouds blowing on the wind. And look, there’s the Southern Cross.  

The Southern Cross, I’ve never seen the Southern Cross! 

Hokulani’s Steak House

Sat, 13 Jul 2013, 06:45 AM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

1. Finding

As we drove thru Kea‘au, we passed a strip mall. There was a gas station, a grocery store, a health food store and a couple restaurants.

It was dinner time. We were hungry. The parking lot was full. And a crowd was at Hokulani’s Steak House. So we decided this was the place to eat.

There was a hostess inside the door.

“Do you have reservations?” she asked. Of course, we didn’t, but she thought she could seat us.

There was a musician setting up his guitar and amps and microphones in the back corner of the main room.

I’m thinking to myself, “Wow, this is perfect.”

2. Ordering

We sat outside on the patio under a broad roof. We sat there happy to have found this place. We sat and watched people coming and going and listened to the conversation on the patio around us. We sat. And we watched. And we sat… And no one came to take our order, although four different people came out at one time or another and looked in our direction.

Eventually the fair and industrious Trudy flagged a guy down.

“I’m just the busboy,” he said in an apologetic tone. And then he added, “I never get a promotion,” an odd thing to say in that situation.

“Well… it’s coming,” I said meaninglessly, not knowing how else to respond.

A few moments later, he returned.

“Chris is the manager,” he told us and then turned around and left.

Wait. What?

A long time passed. More employees looked around the corner. But still no one came to take our order. 

I mean this was a really long wait. Even the couple at the table nearby was noticing our predicament.

Finally a waiter walked up. He had no look of apology on his face. It was as if nothing had happened (which in fact was true). He just walked up to us and said, “Thanks for waiting. Can I take your order?”

As it turned out, we neither saw nor spoke to that waiter again.

3. Eating

Trudy’s soup came first. I sat there while she began.

Then they brought out our appetizers. These were the single worst potato skins I have ever eaten in my life. Not only were they tasteless, but they were topped with canned mushrooms. Mushrooms on potato skins!? Ok, maybe that’s a thing there. But canned!? And the pile of them on top of the potato was daunting. Maybe this was their way of apologizing for how long we had to eat. Or maybe it was their way of hiding the lameness of the potato skins themselves. 

And then my steak came out. It was also covered with canned mushrooms. And it was too rare. Indeed, a guy two tables down had the same problem with his steak, and he had sent it back, but their waiter brought his steak back out from the kitchen and announced quite publicly that in fact it was not too rare, putting the steak back on the table. So I ate my steak, along with the meager, tasteless vegetables.

In all fairness, at least the macaroni salad was good.

4. Paying

After we were finished, Paul the busboy cleared our plates. We pushed back and listened to the music and waited for the bill.

It won’t surprise you that the bill didn’t come. Ten minutes passed without any hint of any face of any person who worked in that place.

At this point, I’m wondering how on earth was it that anyone came here. Trudy gave up and left to do some grocery shopping at the Foodland at the end of the strip mall. I sat there and waited. And waited.

Eventually Paul came to the table. He apologized that he had forgotten, and he gave me the bill.

Wait. What? The busboy who never gets promoted brought us our bill? Holy cow, what kind of upside down world was this?

I gave him my credit card which he took back inside.

When he returned, he set the bill and the card on the table, and he began talking.

He talked about the missles in North Korea. He told me that he like watching the news. He told me how they make fun of him and his best friend for being from North Carolina. He asked where we were from, and he said “H-town!” when I mentioned Texas. He talked about how his friend had gotten a girl pregnant and was now helping raise the boy. And he talked about how he had flown to Hawaii on a one-way ticket, at which point he looked over at me with some kind of knowing look on his face.

5. Postscript

That was our dinner in Kea‘au at Hokulani’s Steak House.

If you should go there some day, let me warn you that the parking lot might be busy, the place might be crowded, they might ask if you have reservations, and there might be live music inside, but we can’t recommend it for dinner, even if there is this great busboy who works there.

Wait. Look. I see on Yelp that the steak house has closed. I guess our experience was not unique.

Malala

Fri, 12 Jul 2013, 08:13 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

One child, one teacher, one pen and one book can change the world.

Malala Yousafzi at the UN

The Top of Puu Huluhulu

Fri, 12 Jul 2013, 05:26 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

Sorry, yet another about our hike along the Napau Trail. This should do it, though…

Along the way there were deep fissures and gashes green with leafy things clinging precariously to the edge of yawning chasms that disappeared into blackness.

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There was evidence of trunks burned to vapors by the lava: round gaps where trees once stood.

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There were piles of jagged a‘a pushed into great heaps and left in place when the Mauna Ulu eruption stopped its five year advance in 1974. 

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We saw these things as we walked along the trail following the markers and cairns that showed the way,

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and we came at last to the foot of Pu‘u Huluhulu where the path disappeared into a shaggy woods and wound up the hill.

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And we came at last to the top,

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which is what we had come for,

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so that we could stand on the summit of that old cinder cone and view the magnificent desolation around us. 

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 Here at marker #14 Trudy told another story.

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She told of a pair of geologists who were monitoring the eruptions from the observation station on the top of Pu‘u Huluhulu, using the CCC-built rock walls as a shield against the heat. She told of how the two of them had to run for their lives as great fountains of red-hot lava started shooting out of the ground raining hot cinders and molten rock down on them. She told about how they didn’t bother following the winding trail that we had just climbed but rather how they raced straight down the hill, scrambling thru the thicket with impending death falling on their hard hats.

“Can you imagine!?” Trudy said, mouth agape.

After a few moments, we turned and followed the winding trail back to the bottom. As we went, we gazed into the undergrowth trying to imagine the flight of those two men, wondering how they were able to get thru the undergrowth, how they were lucky to make out alive.

Volcanology

Fri, 12 Jul 2013, 06:41 AM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

Yes, I’m still still talking about hiking the Napau Trail…

We got to marker #10. Trudy sat down to read from the guide.

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Here, the couple from Arkansas who were ahead of us on the trail turned back when a sign for #16 appeared and confused them.

Now, you must understand who it was that I was hiking with. The fair and industrious Trudy not only was our intrepid tour guide for the day, but she is a geologist who once wanted to be a volcanologist. This is in no small reason why we were vacationing on this particular island in the Pacific. And it was certainly why we were hiking this particular trail that wound thru the pahoehoe desolation. Confusing sign or not, we had no intention of turning back.

At marker #12, Trudy said, “Oh yeah, I wanted to read this story to you.” (Clearly she was surreptitiously skipping ahead in the guide book between the stops.)

So she told the story of Jeffrey Judd who during the Mauna Ulu eruption drove out to the site and hiked onto the active lava channel to collect some samples. She told me how as he was collecting his samples, this 22 year old volcanologist broke thru the surface and sunk up to his knee in hot lava. Out in the burning wilderness alone, clothes on fire, burned, he had to hike out by himself. He survived, but he spent three weeks in the hospital. “Those were the best years of my life,” the guide quoted him as saying today.

There was a fire in Trudy’s eyes. No, we were definitely not turning back.

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The Pioneers of Napau Trail

Thu, 11 Jul 2013, 09:06 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

And now, we return to the long-neglected telling of our trip to Hawaii more than a year ago…

The fair and industrious Trudy began studying the guide before we stepped onto the pahoehoe.

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We weren’t sure how far we wanted to go, since there was so much to do that day, but we ran into Russel and Mary Grace who were friends of Ira’s and said they hiked often there. They gave us some suggestions and said we would regret it. So Napau Trail it was.

The lava field extended to the horizon with Mauna Ulu and Pu‘u Huluhulu (shaggy hill) rising up in the distance out of the cinder, spatter and ash. There were wisps of steam rising from the ground.

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We walked thru this wasteland over rolling billows and beside jagged towers.

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We hiked amid the desolation and were amazed at the pioneers putting down roots.

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Coming up between the cracks, 

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in colors more radiant because of the bleakness,

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the pioneers were all around us.

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Camping in the Spring

Wed, 10 Jul 2013, 09:24 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

I have a lot of things to catch up on, a lot of thoughts scribbled on paper that I ought to convert into bits. This is one of them: some scribbled notes from a late March camping trip to Huntsville State Park…

1. The Night Before

It rained a little last night. It was barely noticeable at first, starting silently then coming down faster until there was an unmistakable patter of drops on the tent.

I hopped out of the sleeping bag and climbed into my jeans and dashed out to stash a few things in the car and to cover a few things and to put a few things away.

And with all things secured, I crept back into the tent and fell soundly asleep until day started to break and the birds began to sing.

2. The Morning After

“Come have some bacon!” we said to Melody as she walked over to say good morning. And to Cody who had several slices. And then to Steve.

And then we said it to Cody again, which led me to put more slices on the skillet. And several more. And then yet more. Cody’s appetite was outstripping my ability to cook.

Still, eventually we all had our fill of eggs and bacon and tortillas and coffee.

The perfect way to start a camping day.

3. That Afternoon

The sun came out in bursts between fleeting clouds. At moments the forest was aglow in spring-green with blooming Dogwoods in the understory of the Oak and Pine and Sweetgum trees. And then at moments dark clouds would pass overhead and a storm seemed imminent.

But then a breeze would stir, and the wind would blow across the water at the foot of the hill, and the rushing breeze thru the Pines would blow away the darkness, and the sun would come out again, warming our skin, casting shadows at our feet as we sat in the blissful comfort of our camp chairs reading and writing and thinking that this was the perfect way to start a camping afternoon.

Perplexion

Tue, 9 Jul 2013, 07:12 AM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

Well that’s a bid Mockingbird, I wondered to myself.

I was going to the compost pile with some grapes whose time had passed, and on my way there I spotted the grey pile of feathers under a wire fence that had fallen over. I leaned over and picked up the fence, prepared to move the carcass so that the dogs wouldn’t mess with it.

Just as I was wondering to myself about the size of the bird and about how many little fuzzy grey feathers it had, it lifted its head.

Big, round, yellow eyes looked up at me.

Snap, snap, snap. It clicked at me. It spread its wings in two grey arcs larger than any mere Mockingbird could.

This was no Mockingbird. Wings spread, yellow eyes gazing upward, snapping beak. This was an owl, obviously one of the Eastern Screech Owl brood that has been in the trees since spring.

I walked over to the compost pile and tossed the grapes on top. But I kept one for the owl, thinking it might be thirsty — who knows how long it had been lying there pined under the fence. I began to walk back.

The owl wasn’t watching me, anymore. It was looking around, its round owl-eyes giving that look of perplexion that owl gazes always have, only this particular owl had good reason to be perplexed. It looked up into the Pine tree, flapped its wings a couple times, bounced off the ground once then twice then was airborne, gone into the Pine branches or maybe into the Walnut tree beyond.

I looked up to find the branch where it had landed, but there was nothing to see. Maybe it was up there gazing down. Or maybe it was gazing off into the Pecan tree just beyond, where the five owls sit during the day. Or maybe it was just gazing that gaze of perplexion, because that’s what owls do.

Long Weekend’s End

Sun, 7 Jul 2013, 08:27 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

1.

Perhaps it wasn’t the best time of day to be digging in the dirt. But there were other things to do earlier in the day, and so I showed up at 2:30 with the 100+ degree sun beating down on the little patch of ground where some digging needed doing. It was indeed a little patch of ground, just a few feet of packed soil with weeds and Bermuda grass that needed clearing.

The ground and the weeds and the grass held tightly to each other. Separating them required some effort. Yesterday things started with the mattock and gradually moved to a garden fork. But today it was a long handled shovel, frankly the tool I should have been using all along. (What was I thinking?)

Inch by inch, the shovel sliced thru the dirt as the sun beat down and sweat ran down my face, dripped off my nose, drenched my shorts and soaked my shirt. But on the other side of the driveway was a patch of shade and a mercifully cool breeze and a chair in which to sit. I visited the chair often.

“It’s a good thing you don’t do this for a living,” my aunt once told me. “You’d go broke.”

It’s true. I would. But I don’t.

2.

The dogs dashed out the door into the pouring rain. There was no thunder to rouse them. The rain was anomaly enough.

“We need fifteen minutes of this,” said the fair and industrious Trudy as she looked down at her phone to mark the time.

After a while, the downpour eased.

“Five minutes,” Trudy called out, “not enough time.”

Nothing but a light drizzle remained, and the sun was threatening to come out. But then it started raining again harder than before. Another five minutes. Maybe ten.

“I bet you haven’t seen a day-long rain in a while,” Ken said to me the other day.

“No,” I said. “Haven’t seen one of those since I moved here in ’82.”

He laughed, but it’s true.

Fifteen minutes of rain. We’ll take it.

3.

At the end of day, the cloudy skies cleared and the sun went down. The sky lit up in hues of pastel blue and pink.

Dusk advanced from the east, passing overhead, chasing the pink away, turning the clouds into wisps of purple/grey.

Four swallows raced in great circles beyond the silhouettes of the Live Oak trees. Somewhere down the block, Nighthawks were beginning to sing.

Standing beside the street where the brutal sun of summer beats down on it every day, the Texas Redbud stood in the gathering gloom with its deep green leaves curled up in places, holding glistening drops of water from the rain. 

And just before night descended, a spider spun a web between the Redbud branches, a gentle breeze buffeting it back and forth.

What My Brother Sends Me

Fri, 5 Jul 2013, 09:23 AM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

Sometimes he comes here. And then sometimes he just sends me things. This is something he sent a while ago with a little not-so artistic license along the way.

BenA chicago

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