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The Merrie Monarch Festival

Tue, 23 Apr 2013, 08:44 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

“You have tickets?” a woman asked us. “How did you get tickets?”

Five words: the fair and industrious Trudy. Long before the trip began (which is now one year ago), Trudy waited until the minute they went on sale and got us tickets for the hula competition at the Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo.

Yes. We had tickets. And as we entered the hall, we had leis draped around our shoulders and a gentle perfume trailing behind us as we walked in.

“These are general admission tickets,” the hostess told us. We nodded. “General admission tickets,” she said, pointing to the other side of the hall. We nodded and began walking toward the stage. “General admission tickets,” she said for a third time. “There are three rows over there behind the stage.” And she redirected us off to the left.

Behind. In front. The stage was visible from all directions. And we had tickets.

And we used the camera with abandon, until the battery mercifully ran out.

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Cap10K

Wed, 10 Apr 2013, 08:22 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

1. At The Starting Line

They won’t tell you how far back they stood when they stood at the starting line, although if they did, they’d also have to mention how relieved they were when they realized they were initially standing way, way too far back in a crowd that made them feel more like geezers and plodders than in truth they are.

No, they won’t tell you about that. And neither will I.

But I will tell you that the Mockingbirds were singing in the trees, hidden amid the spring green leaves and orange-brown tassels of Oak pollen. Yes, I know I always say that about the birds. And I always say that the sun was shining and the sky was blue. But on this day, the sun wasn’t shining nor was the sky blue. Indeed, the sky was overcast and gray as they stood waiting for the race to start.

But it wasn’t a long wait. And it was made easier by the happy murmuring of the crowd, an Austin Maroons banner held high by a runner with a maroon afro, Scooby and Shaggy milling about in the crowd, much taking of cellphone pictures and great music.

And then the announcer cried, “Go!” as Stevie Ray Vaughn (Who else?) boomed out the speakers.

Far ahead, heads began bobbing. A surge of moving bodies worked its way from the starting line back to marker 1 (6 minutes per mile) to 2 (7 minutes per mile) to 3 (8 minutes) to 4 to … well back to where the two of them were standing. And for a moment they were jogging, but then of course the surge passed behind them as they came to a stop.

And then the crowd began walking. Walking. The two of them began walking from … well from where they had started, walking all the way up to the starting line. For 15 minutes they walked as thousands and thousands of runners crossed the starting line and began the race. 

2. Around Mile 5

Somewhere around mile 5, they were running on the left side of the crowd, because frankly most of the crowd was moving pretty slowly.

This was mostly his fault. At the halfway point he had waited in line at a porta-potty, and of course she waited for him. It cost them 10 minutes.

So by the time they got to mile 5 they were far behind the real running crowd. And it was here that he looked up and saw a man ahead of them with a hand-written sign taped to his back: In Denial — 90 years old.

The fair and industrious Trudy was trying to pick up the pace, but David (Yes, they were them.) moved right up to the man’s left shoulder and held out his hand as they passed him.

The man looked over and smiled and gave David five. David smiled and then turned back to run at Trudy’s pace. But then he did a double take. He turned back, leaning to get a look at the man’s face.

“I know you,” he said to the man.

“Yes,” said the man. He was smiling and very relaxed. “I’ve seen the two of you at a Turkey Trot or two.”

 “And I taught you in a computer class at the library a couple times.”

“Yes,” chuckled the man. “I finally figured out how to get on the Internet.”

“I’m David.”

“I’m Jim.”

“See you at the finish line.”

3. Not In Denial

Maybe he was in the front of the crowd at the start and so got a 15 minute head start on them. And certainly he didn’t wait in any line at the 5K mark. But think of it: he was there running along at 90 years old, and it was not until mile 5 that the two of them even caught up. 

He’s not in denial about anything. He’s doing just fine.

Laudau and Curie

Mon, 8 Apr 2013, 09:00 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

We were sitting at the edge of the restaurant patio, enjoying a sliver of sun on a blustery day as we ate out salads and soup and sandwiches. A couple with two dogs sat down at a table nearby.

Trudy and the woman made eye contact and realized that they knew each other. 

“Pretty dog,” Trudy said, looking at the woman’s Siberian Husky.

“Thanks,” she said, “he’s Landau.”

Bang! goes my head: Landau and Lifshitz. But I kept the thought to myself. 

Later I mentioned it to Trudy. I whispered that I wanted to ask if their other dog was Lifshitz, and I told Trudy about the series of physics textbooks, Course of Theoretical Physics by L.D. Landau and E.M. Lifshitz.

“You’re hopeless,” she chuckled, as we got up to take our empty plates back into the restaurant.

On the way to the car, we stopped by the table again to chat with the couple and admire the dogs.

“What’s your other dog’s name?” Trudy asked.

“Curie,” the woman said.

Bang! goes my head. I don’t need to tell you what I was thinking. Now, I couldn’t keep it to myself.

“Are these physics names? I mean, is Landau the Landau in Landau and Lifshitz?”

Now the woman’s eyes went wide as she and the man laughed. “Yes!” she said. “You know!”

Yes. And their Volume 1, Mechanics is on the shelf behind me. 1976. Third Edition. 166 pages of lean, gorgeous text.

Kilauea #1

Thu, 28 Mar 2013, 09:38 AM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

We woke to the green glow of the rain forest outside the cottage windows.

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And after a decadent shower with tropical air blowing in the windows, we wandered around the grounds of Volcano Garden Arts.

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It was a foggy, cloudy day. Wisps blew thru the treetops. We had a simple breakfast of bananas, bread and cereal, and then we drove the mile up the road for the first of what would turn out to be many visits to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

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There were steam vents beside the road with white steam rising out of fern-lined holes in the ground. The mist and the fog and the steam were all around us. The forests stood silently in the distant haze. The grasses waved in the humid air. Behind a stand of green trees across a field, large clouds of steam billowed out of the ground and were carried away by the breeze.

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At the caldera’s edge, we gazed out beyond the grasses and ferns and trees obliviously growing at the brink of destruction. In the distance thru the haze and clouds and blowing mist, steam rose from beyond the edge of the inner crater.

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Halema‘uma‘u. Pele’s home.

Our Destination

Thu, 28 Mar 2013, 08:33 AM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

Late at night, with the headlights of the Jeep lighting the wet, narrow asphalt road thru Volcano Village, we pulled onto a short, gravel driveway.

Ira Ono was in his shop working on textiles or maybe ceramics. The glow from the windows lit the path, and we were able to figure out the gate latch and walk around to the workshop door. Ira said hello from beneath bright strands of multicolor yarn hanging from the ceiling.

He showed us the way to the cottage. Showed us the tiny porch, the lights, the luxurious shower and how to work the door. He told us to make ourselves at home and to enjoy our stay. And he wished us good night.

With that, we had arrived.

This was Volcano. The destination of destinations on our trip. Our final stop. The object of many years of longing for the fair and industrious geologist standing beside me. She held my hand with a broad, contented smile on her face. 

A tiny, cozy cottage to ourselves that she had discovered in her many researches. A café and a gallery and a garden with hidden spaces that we would explore later. Kilauea up the road. Hilo down the road. 

Yes, we had finally arrived.

Ken’s House of Pancakes

Sun, 17 Mar 2013, 08:25 AM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

So we glided down on Saddle Road in the rain in the dark into the dim, yellow glow of the streetlights of Hilo. We turned right at Hilo Bay, drove by Bayfront Park, passed signs for Liliuokalani Gardens and turned right on Highway 11, prepared for a final climb up toward Kileauea and Ira Ono’s Volcano Garden Arts guest cottage

But we were hungry, and there on the corner we spied Ken’s House of Pancakes (jammin’ since 1971).

Frankly, we didn’t know what we were doing. We were just hungry, and the lights were on, and the parking lot was pretty full, so we pulled in for something to eat. As it turns out, we couldn’t have chosen a better place.

The building is a long, one story diner kind of thing. As I remember it (caveat lector), there’s a bar where you can eat if you’re on your own. And there’s a visible kitchen in the back. And there are many booths where you can sit in groups. We sat in a booth. 

The menu was daunting. There was a little bit of everything: breakfast, omelets listed separately from breakfast, entrees, nite meals, island favorites, desserts… We chose loco moco. Trudy had Ono Loco. I had Corned Beef Hash Loco.

Our eyes went wide when the food arrived, and in no time at all our hunger was … poof. It was the best loco we had ever eaten. It was the first loco we had ever eaten. And if I ever have it again, it needs to be at Ken’s.

Cinder Cone Path

Sat, 16 Mar 2013, 11:31 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

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The Summit of Mauna Kea

Sat, 16 Mar 2013, 07:34 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

1. The Summit

We didn’t stay at the top long. We stopped and gawked at the telescopes sitting on top of the world.

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And we gazed at a tempting trail along a peak leading to one of the orange cinder cones that dot Mauna Kea. 

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There were pockets of snow along the trail, and it led to a summit far off that must have had a wonderful view. But the sun was getting low in the sky, throwing our shadows out onto the slopes.

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And I was getting dizzy from the altitude. And we didn’t want to be crawling back down the volcano in the dark. So we walked around a bit more, and took one more good look at the panorama, the southern view of which included the flanks of Mauna Loa, although we didn’t realize it at the time (which is another story).

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2. Descent

I breathed deeply to try to make the dizziness go away. We got into the Jeep. And we began our descent.

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On the way down, we passed a Suburban with two flat tires. (What horrible luck, but help was on the way.) And we passed two hikers with packs on their backs, hiking rods in their hands and determined looks on their faces. And there were buses and Jeeps carrying tour groups, clearly ascending to catch the sunset.

We descended back into the clouds and mist and rain, leaving the magnificent blue sky behind.

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Daytime became dusk. And by the time we emerged all the way at the bottom on Saddle Road where we had started this detour, rain was falling, it was night, the fog was thick, and we had zero visibility.

Still, the road was four lanes now with bright yellow stripes down the side — luxurious compared to the drive up from Kona. And we were going downhill so swiftly that we virtually glided all the way to Hilo.

Ascending Mauna Kea

Sat, 16 Mar 2013, 09:29 AM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

Editor’s Note: This fish documents a drive up Mauna Kea. It contains nothing profound. The pictures might or might not hold some interest, but by and large the words are not for general consumption but rather are part of the author’s conceit that years from now it might be particularly nice to read back and reflect upon that which might otherwise have been lost to old age oblivion which even now approaches. Feel free to skip as always but here in particular.

1. Can We Go Up?

There was a road that continued beyond the parking lot of the visitors’ center.

“Can we drive up?” I asked the woman at the counter. 

“I’ll let you take this one,” she said to a rugged, ranger-looking man beside her and walked away.

“Well you see,” he said in a consoling tone as he took her place, “the road is very steep, and it is not paved. You need four wheel drive. “

“We have a Jeep,” I said, glancing over at Trudy.

“Oh that’s different.” 

He paused and then offered some advise. He said to use 4L and to use low gear coming back down so that our brakes didn’t overheat. And he cautioned us about the cold. And about snow blindness. And about altitude sickness. And then he added that we should stay there, at the visitors’ center, for at least 30 minutes to acclimate to the altitude.

2. Deciding

You see as we were driving thru the clouds and fog on Saddle Road, we had turned left on a whim when we saw a sign for the Onizuka Mauna Kea Observatory Visitor Information Station. And the center was at 9000 feet, already high enough to be above the thickest of the cloud cover and fog.

Our original plan had been to drive Saddle Road between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. We would cross the island rather than driving around it. This was to be a scenic short cut but nothing more. We had not contemplated the summit of Mauna Kea, but then we hadn’t known it was an option.

So here we were, halfway … up in a Jeep. We’d probably never be here again, and if we decided to drive back down without going all the way up, we might regret it for the rest of our lives.

We decided to do it.

3. Up To The Summit

The Jeep crept along at 15 miles per hour, the gears whining in that reassuring four wheel drive way. It reminded me of Bunka’s Willy’s Jeep pickup truck crawling thru the woods and blowsand of Michigan years and years ago.

But there were no woods here. There was only the gravel road and barren brown dirt and rock slopes punctuated by struggling grass and scraggly trees hiding in the mist.

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In places, cliffs fell precipitously away from the right shoulder. And as we crept up the steeply sloped road, the clouds began to break, and patches of blue began to show.

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Then, in a place where the grass and shrubs and struggling trees gave way to nothing but rock and sporadic mounds of some kind of ground-hugging scrub, we topped the clouds. 

The sky was blue. The slope was steep. Rocky, unstable-looking heaps of mountainside shot up from the left shoulder of the road and a vast void of nothingness dropped off to the right. Orange cinder cones popped up out of nowhere as we rounded sharp switchbacks.

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The cloud deck blanketed the island below us. The windows were cold to the touch. The gravel crunching under our tires seemed to be kept in place only by a few boulders.

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4. Reaching The Summit

And then the observatories appeared — sleek, silver cylinders and round, white domes with blue sky and scattered cirrus clouds above them and with barren landscape all around. An outpost of civilization in the midst of desolation.

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Nearly 14,000 feet. We made it.

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Climbing Saddle Road

Fri, 15 Mar 2013, 04:56 PM (-06:00) Creative Commons License

The fog was so thick as we climbed up Saddle Road that at times we could barely see the stripes on the side. It blew across the grassland and into woodsy thickets hidden in the gloaming.

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We drove slowly up the slopes following the route between the island’s two massive volcanos. When we came to the state park, the clouds were lifting, giving us a better view of the land, but the flanks of Mauna Kea were still draped in mist.

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There was green here. The slopes were green. Green grass was growing on the ground. And trees and shrubs. But there were periodic reminders that this was not always a pastoral place. The grasslands were punctuated by black flows of cooled lava. In places the land was scraped clear by it with scraggy shrubs poking up here and there and maybe a lone surviving tree standing on high ground in the distance.

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We parked the Jeep and walked a bit. Then we got back in and tested the four wheel drive for the first time, almost getting stuck between 4L and 4H in a low area. And then we resumed our climb up Saddle Road.

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